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I had heard of Kerala, before I was headed to India, I hadn't planned on heading that South, then I found out about Anara Kerala and before I knew it, I was there.
I flew into Thiruvananthapuram and realised quickly that no one really wanted to drive me out to Varkala, after some fun conversations with drivers about not using the Uber app, I just settled and we were on our way.
We passed some beautiful churches, big posters of Ronaldo and Messi and some landscapes that made me think of Laos and when the beach was in the background, Fiji came to mind.
I arrived at my accommodation and was starving, I was given a welcome drink and immediately looked at their menu. While waiting for my meal to arrived, I finally soaked in my surroundings, right in front of me, was our own private beach, well it seemed it. The dining area was under, a straw canopy surrounded by beautiful plants and trees, adorned with the most stunning flowers.
The resort had a chill vibe, the owners are from Europe and were always up for a chat. The majority of people who stayed there were a tad older. I didn't mind that at all, apparently I am an old soul, so I fit right in.
I had come a day early so I could have some chill time before spending most my days at the resort in which Anara was taking place.
Varkala's hotspots were laced along the coast and were simply named as North Cliff and South Cliff. Apart of Anara's agenda was dinner at North Cliff, as I was making my way to dinner, my auto was stopped in the middle of the road, just like when the fireworks go off on Guy Fawkes day in Wellington, everyone stops to watch, instead of fireworks, it was elephants, three elephants, they were dressed in their best for the temple. It was such a privilege to witness something so special to the locals.
When I finally arrived for dinner, North Cliff reminded me of cities that have esplanades full of restaurants, the top floor was an open balcony, large tables for big parties like ours. When we looked out, it was the water and also, the catch of the day displayed to be purchased.
It was such a unexpected surprise to see Ashita again, during my second visit to Dream Village. Ashita had just come back from Kochi, Ashita spoke about Biennale, the more Ashita said, the more I wanted to see it for myself. And because I was already headed to Anara Kerala, adding Kochi, was a no brainer.
From Varkala, Kochi is just a short train ride away and just like that, I was lining up for an auto to take me to Santa Maria Hostel, Fort Kochi. I choose this hostel for it's location, it was surrounded by several of the Biennale exhibitions and workshops.
After settling myself in, I went for a walk around Fort Kochi. The first thing that caught my attention, was a flyer, advertising musical performances and also, Kathakali, a tradition theatre style artform. As a child, I grew up loving the performing arts, this started with my parents watching Thai likay, a popular form of folk theatre. There was something about the costumes and the storylines that captivated me, Kathakali was right up that alley and there is where I found the show, down an alley way. I walked into the room, which was full of European tourist. The performance was a presentation of Kathakali, there was a MC that did all the talking as Kathakali is not a speaking art form. The actor proceeded to go through the different displays of emotions, using hands, eyes, facial, head and body movements. I enjoyed every moment and so did everyone else, there were laughs and tears. To truly showcase the beauty of Kathakali, the actors acted out a scene from a play. What a sight, it was to witness a Kathakali costume in all it's glory, it had me wanting more so the next time I am here, that is on my to do list.
Fort Kochi was one of my favourite places to walk around, it was surrounded by water and whichever direction I walked there was something new to discover. I watched the ferry come in and the people, motorbikes and vehicles unload. There was stall after stall along the waterside. I can't remember exactly what I was looking for that night, however I found myself in one of my favourite places, a book store. My best friend Asagi sent me a postcard on one of her trips and it something I cherish so whenever I come across a postcard, I do the same for her. I spent a good hour in that shop and a bit of money too, mainly postcards and my best buy was a tarot card deck. It smelt of dampness but only the box had a lil bit of water damage. The artwork on the cards reminded me of the Kathakali so I was drawn to it even more so. I also picked up a Malaylam (the local language of Kerala) phrase book.
The next morning, I had stopped into see a small art exhibition in a secluded back area of a bed and breakfast style accommodation, the staff were so friendly, I had to stop to have a drink, it was also the time the staff were having breakfast, they were all so friendly and welcoming I didn't want to leave. However, Ashita had given me the contact details of one of the art curators and I had planned to meet him, so I had to leave. I met up with Blaise at ABC artroom. And because it was happening that day, I attended the "From story to stage" workshop, what a revelating experience, it was, so much so I gave it, it's own write up.
That started my thirst to see what other experience Biennale had to offer, what made it even more enjoyable was I had company.
I was lucky enough to meet a really cool group of Indian rainbow fam bam. I have been looking for them, I want to pick their brains, hear their stories and how they live their lives in such a country. I was also blessed to have a friend I had met at the retreat join me in Kochi, so one could say, it was a gay ol time.
Food is such a common language and something best shared, I connected with so many people in this way. I found myself cooking "eggs your way" at the cafe (a lil hut, outside the hostel) for any of the other patrons at the hostel, we tried to plan a steak night, however my remaining nights in Kochi became filled with company. I also connected with an incredible artist by the name of Kee, who was also a foodie and recommended some must try's in Kochi, I did what I was told and ended up with these tantalising treats, my favourite was the vada and am so happy when I see them included in hotel breakfast buffets, they make me think of a triangular savoury donut, that's what I googled to find the name.
My time in Kochi was short, however was one of the more memorable towns, it revealed to me, how true the following saying is in my life...
In high school, I stopped taking art for a couple of reasons, my art teacher, started to colour one of my artworks and art wasn't a priority once the sciences divided into three different subjects, all in which I enjoyed. There was also that I had perfectionist tendencies, I still do, I will not attempt to draw anything I know will be horrible, the irony in that is how do I expect to get better if I don't practice.
An extra note, Kerala is known for it's spices, so I had to take some home for my chefs, unfortunately, a few were not allowed into Australia.
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